Weingut Krutzler, Blaufränkisch Perwolff (2013)

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This iconic red is still in cask; through the tannic veil is something sweet and lovely; ripe cherries and a Burgundian cast, like the violet side of Volnay or the south side of Nuits St Georges; succulent and euphoric, not self-serious or dour, and finishing with a wash of happy ripe berries and, curiously, even flowers, wisteria and lilac—first time I’ve found that florality in BF. There’s a reason this wine is an icon.