The story of les Vins Contés is that of a retailer meeting a winemaker. In 2002, Hervé Villemade was looking to start a négociant business (i.e. buy grapes from other growers to vinify them). He picked Lemasson to be his partner, and les Vins Contés drew from their complementary talents. In 2006, they amiably parted ways so that Villemade could concentrate on his own estate again. Undeterred, Lemasson continued on with Vins Contés.
For many years the project was 100% purchased fruit; Olivier would source old vineyards worked organically, often seeking the obscure grapes of Touraine like Menu Pineau and Pineau d'Aunis. Eventually he was able to start renting two hectares of vines, and in 2016 was finally able to purchase his own land, nine hectares of vines he had previously been buying grapes from.
The wines are all made in an intentional "vin de soif" style; the whites are direct-pressed, vibrant and bright while the reds are for the most part short macerations and meant to be drunk fruity and young. Two cuvées, Gamasutra (from 100+ Gamay vines) and Cheville de Fer (from 100+ Côt vines), are made to age, though both are often easy-drinking on release.
Sick of having to fight with the AOC board for the Touraine appellation, Lemasson decided to intentionally de-classify all of his wines to Vin de France in 2012. Depending on the vintage, Olivier will either bottle the wines sulfur free or add a minuscule dose at bottling.
Grapes: Côt (Malbec)
SO2: No sulfur added to the wine
Soil Composition: Clay, Flint, Limestone
Farming: Organic (not certified)
Age of vines: 70 years old
Fun facts: Legend goes that the soils were so hard here that horses would break their ankles on it. Hence the name "Iron Ankle."
Winemaking: Whole-cluster, semi-carbonic maceration for only seven days to avoid tannic extraction and then six months of elevage in 500L barrels.